"This Time for Africa"

Tonight is my last night in The Gambia. Tomorrow morning we leave for Dakar, Senegal. We are going to drive to Dakar, which will take about 7 hours and then spend Wednesday night in Dakar. Thursday we'll hang out and soak up our last rays of African sun by the hotel pool and then leave for the Dakar International Airport at midnight. Then, I will be back on American soil Friday at 6 am. While I am excited to get home, be back in America, be back with my family and friends, be near a Dunkin Donuts, I am sad to leave Africa. I had a truly eye-opening study abroad experience here which I have not even begun to process. I know I've changed, but I'm yet sure exactly what's different. I do know what I will miss about The Gambia:

1. The smiles. It's not called "The Smiling Coast of Africa" for nothing.

2. The sun. Every day was sunny, hot, bright, and sweaty.

3. Fresh fruit stands everywhere. Not only are they colorful sights along the roads, but they also always have fresh fruit that's ready to eat. Instant snack.

4. The bushtaxis. The taxis were cheap, mostly reliable and always a fun way to get around. No matter where I was going, I knew I would have a ride. It was also a great way to meet regular people going to work, school and get their shopping done.

5. My running routes. Through the Bakau Women's Gardens, up to Kairaba on the weekends to get sweet rolls, by the Gambia Radio and Television Studios, around the Independence National Stadium; I will most likely never run those routes again. For me, running was a great way to just see and look and observe daily life.

6. The markets. I loved to barter for fabric, brooms, shoes, and everything else that's for sale in the markets. Going into The Gap for a shirt just won't be as fun, or as loud, hot, colorful, or provide so many smells to smell.

7. My house. Our sanctuary in The Gambia when we got overwhelmed. I will definitely miss Mohammed, Haddy, and Sainabou. They took care of us while we were here: cooked, cleaned, talked, laughed, helped.

Of course, there are things about The Gambia that I won't miss:

1. The majority of Gambian men. They basically just see American women as a ticket to America and treat us accordingly.

2. The money. It smells like fish because it gets passed around in the many fish markets here.

3. The trash. There is no public waste disposal service so trash gets thrown in piles on the side of the road and burned. Imagine getting a mouthful of that smoke when you're running down the road in 100 degree heat.

4. Not knowing whether or not the food I am eating is safe. You just never know here and when you eat something, you're always taking a chance on getting sick. But, it's eat or starve.

5. Hot, sunny days every day. Rain and thunderstorms are nice once and awhile.

7. Not being able to communicate 100 percent of my meaning 100 percent of the time I'm talking. I won't miss the language barrier. Telling someone five times, five different ways, with five different gestures, that I don't want mayonnaise isn't always funny.

Jermaine Jackson

Last night was the concert of the century. Jermaine Jackson, older brother to Michael Jackson, came to The Gambia to play a tribute concert to MJ. The concert was part of the Kanilai Cultural Festival, which is held every year in The Gambia and attracts a lot of West African artists, performers, and musicians. Many of these West African musicians played before Jermaine. There were Gambian rappers, Guinean singers, Senegalese calabash players, and a Jola (a tribe here in The Gambia) cultural group that danced, sang, and drummed. Tickets went on sale for 100 dalasis, about 4 dollars, but then the priced was dropped to 50 dalasis, 2 dollars, after the concert was changed from Saturday to Sunday evening. I think the reason they moved the concert back a day and dropped the price in tickets was because they didn't pre-sell enough tickets. Then, halfway through the opening acts, President Jammeh said the people hanging around the outside of the stadium could come in free of charge. But the concert did go on on Sunday and I think about 2,000 people attended. Jermaine was supposed to start at 8 pm. But, President Jammeh did not arrive until 10:30 pm, then Jermaine arrived at midnight and went onstage about 1:3o am. So, the concert only started five and a half hours late. He played a bunch of Michael Jackson's songs like Man in The Mirror, Beat It, Billie Jean, Black or White, and some Jackson 5 like ABC and I'll Be There. It was also Jammeh's birthday, so Jermaine sang Happy Birthday to the president. The sound technology was awful, but Jermaine was a good performer and an equally good singer, so it was really fun. President Jammeh got up and danced and the Gambians LOVED it. Apparently, Jammeh is a huge Michael Jackson fan. Jermaine played until about 3 am. I never thought I would go to the first ever MJ tribute concert while I was in Africa. However, it was a lot of fun and an once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Tiereney holding our Jermaine Jackson tickets.

Haddy sitting in the backyard waiting for everyone.

Independence National Stadium all lit up for the concert.

President Jammeh's motorcade arriving at the stadium.

Blair covering her ears because it was SO LOUD!

Jermaine, wearing white, rockin' out.

African Queen

Our last KSAC group activity was today: camel riding! We went out to Tanji, a fishing village along the coast, to Camel Safari Co. Ltd. They saddled (or seated) up the camels, we all jumped in our seats, and the camels swayed upright. Our guide took us along a really skinny bridge, down along the beach, and then up through some salt flats. Riding the camels was really bumpy and wobbly. The camels make a lot of grumbling noises and are constantly chewing, spitting and pooping. However, I am glad we did it because it was our first "touristy" thing we did here and it was a laugh.


The camels all lined up and ready to go. I was under the impression they would be saddled, like horses. But this way is more life threatening.

We're up in the air!

Going along the beach.

Michelle and Tiereney thought it was an amusement park ride.

It's pretty obvious I wanted to stay far away from the camels.

Goodbye UTG

Friday, May 28th was my last day at the university. I took my African Drama final at 9:30 am then got on a bushtaxi to go home. I won't miss the hour-long bushtaxi ride out there and back in the hot sun, but I will miss the Gambian university students. They work hard, are proud of their university, and deserve success.

Kanilai International Cultural Festival

This is a billboard for the Kanilai International Cultural Festival. The title of this year's festival is "Back To Our Roots: Rediscovering The Mystical Powers of Our African Heritage". The main event is a tribute concert to Michael Jackson by his brother, Jermaine. Apparently, this is the first tribute concert to Michael Jackson EVER and it's happening in THE GAMBIA on Saturday. Regular tickets are 100 Dalasis, or about 4 dollars, and VIP tickets are 2,000 Dalasis and up, about 80 dollars. So very cheap to pretty pricey for knock-off MJ. However, this is huge event for The Gambia and Gambians are really excited. If you have time, Google Jermaine Jackson and you can read about the media coverage.

The Sun Is Hot

From 8 am until 5 pm we had no power today. We have not had power a lot these days because the Kanilai International Festival is going on in The Gambia right now. It's an African arts and culture festival and (we think) the power company is diverting all power out to Kanilai. That means no fans, no refrigeration, no internet. We were sweating...so what else is there to do but read while sprawled somewhere trying very hard not to let any one body part touch another body part. As the Gambians say "The sun is hot."

Rules of the Road

Gambians follow their own road rules and regulations. This sometimes results in many gasps, shrieks, and covering of the eyes. Some common rules and regulations:

1. Don't break...ever.
2. Swerving is good. Do it often.
3. Speed up to pass. Do not slow down once you have passed. Always pass when opposing traffic is less than 100 meters in front of you.
4. Pedestrians never have the right of way.
5. Always assume people, cars, goats, small children and other obstacles will get out of your way. Remember you are the most important thing on the road.

This could be either a two-lane or eight-lane highway.

"Eyes on the road sir!"

Traffic police cubicle.

"If you want us to take you to America, you have to get us home alive!"

Type Faster!

Blair, Michelle and I went to Business World to finish our last assignments for the semester. They have free internet, not free smoothies and food, and nice bathrooms. They also have a very business-looking office where they process online Visa applications for the US and the UK. So Gambians who need/want to get to the US or UK can use the office at Business World to fill out their Visa application online. This is a new system for both countries and we and the Brits are the first and only countries so far that allow people to apply for Visas online. Gambians looking to go to other countries still need to wait in line at the embassy. Now talented Gambians can leave their home country for better work, higher salaries, and a friendlier political climate even faster, if they wish to and are given a Visa. This is good for the US and Europe, but is it good for The Gambia?

SPF 30

Ahhh...finals week.

Send More Money

Yesterday, we took our Human Rights final. Afterwards, Professor Nagengast decided he would like a little photo op with a World Bank truck...

(In case you can't see it, he wrote 'send more money' on the windshield.)

Speak!

Today was my final exam in Drama and Society. We gave speeches related to a play called Mnemonic that we read in class.

Safi speaking about the importance of identity.

Sarah speaking on identity crisis.

Danielle speaking about the accuracy of memory

Carolyn speaking on group memory.

And....where I ended my day.

The Market in Chaos...And Not The European One

Danielle and I went to Serekunda Market today to buy fabric. The Gambian Roads Authority also decided to do massive road construction this week. The roads were dirty, dusty, and dangerous. There were gaping holes everywhere in preparation for laying piping, I assume. At one intersection, people were ducking under and around a working backhoe that was digging a hole in the street. Utter chaos...

A mound of dirt in the middle of the "street."

A HUGE ram. I had to take a picture.

This woman is picking her way around the debris from this crater.

Those boards laying across the ditch are makeshift bridges so people can get to the shops.

"Oh look! A sidewalk, let's cross over and walk on it." -Danielle

Suburban Gambia

Two random suburban streets in The Gambia.

The Plight of Animals

There is a family of kittens living in the compound next door. And while they are cute (and you all know I love animals), seeing them makes me sad. No one is there to pet them, or feed them, or take them to the vet. Wild cats and dogs are a serious problem in The Gambia and many other developing countries. The dogs and cats are not fixed so there is a constant replenishing of the unlucky dogs and cats that die from the hard life on streets. There is no ASPCA or ARL in The Gambia, no service to euthanize sick animals, provide shelters or spay and neuter. No one looks after the animals that we consider cute, loving pets in America and let sleep in our beds and eat off of our tables. Here, they are considered pests and they are treated as such. I do know of one charity that tries to round up the cats and fix them, but they have little funding and therefore, little power or influence to help. When I tell Gambians that I have pets I let into my house, they are astonished. Here, letting an animal into your home is unheard of. Because they do not see these animal as potential pets, I think it's hard for Gambians to be sympathetic to or care about the welfare of the street animals.

That's a Wrap

With Sarah's extra fabric from one of her dresses, Blair tried out her headwrapping skills. Her new business, in case anyone is interested, is called Innovative Toubab Headwrapping, Inc.

Blair sporting her first masterpiece.

Carolyn showing off Blair's next work of art.

Sarah exhibiting Blair's last creation.

Encounters of the UTG Kind

Today, a few girls and I were running errands and we ran into some fellow students from the University in town.

From left to right: Sarah, Blair, Carolyn, Fakebba, Mariam, Amanda, Christiana, Danielle, Landing

I Like to Move It, Move It

Attending aerobics class at Independence Stadium:

Getting ready for class.

Our workout room, underneath the "Malaria Kills" billboard.

Mr. Freeman cheering on the class during abs.

The entrance and exit to Independence Stadium, where our aerobics class is.

MDM

This is my MDM (Mosquito Defense Mechanism) over my bed. In the vernacular, you might say mosquito net. No matter the name, it protects me nightly from the most annoying of insects.


Yes, that is a Pocahontas pillow.

Lunch Time

These girls, wearing their school uniforms, are on their 2:30 pm lunch break from school. Schools do not provide lunches to students so most kids go home or do what these girls are doing: go to their favorite taapalaapa stand to grab a sandwich for 12 dalasis (less than 50 cents). Taapalaapa is a type of bread used for sandwiches in The Gambia. It reminds me of a cross between sourdough and French bread. Usually, they get hardboiled eggs, cooked potatoes, beans, or meat with mayonnaise on their taapalaapa. And these girls will be full for hours because taapalaapa sandwiches are about a foot long. These stands also sell Coke, Fanta, water, and tea for the students. After the students are done eating and hanging out at the stand, they will make their way back to school.

Happy Mother's Day!

Where we love is home...home that our feet may leave, but not our hearts. -Oliver Wendell Holmes, Sr.

HAPPY

MOTHER'S

DAY!

(By the way, these are the three dresses from the tailor!)

Dressmaker, Dressmaker, Make Me A Dress...

I went to the tailor this morning (and this afternoon) to pick up three dresses I had designed for me by Faith, the tailor. Most women and men have their dress clothes designed for and tailored to them by a neighborhood tailor...of which there are many in The Gambia. They go to the market, buy a few metres of their favorite fabric and take it to the tailor. A few weeks later after fittings and adjustments, they walk out of the shop with a beautiful outfit tailored to their body. However, the markets and stores do sell an abundance of "Western-style" clothes (jeans, teeshirts, tank tops, and khakis) which many people do wear out and about to go to class or work. Still, even with the infusion and diffusion of Western fashions into The Gambia, most Gambians still wear traditional clothing.


Faith the tailor (in the blue) giving directions.

Cloth to be made into outfits.

One of the sewing machines with my dress on it.

A completed shirt in the traditional style.

Faith greeting new customers.

I bet you guys want to know what kind of dresses I got...